Sunday, September 02, 2007
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
The Great Divide of the Canadian Rockies May 2007
11.-27.05.2007.
Select Photos

Notice my headlamp, the day started at 1am in order to be down the Lambe Glacier before the sun warms up 10cm of fresh on the NE and E slopes.
Many thanks
to all who have helped me with the last minute preparation.
Firstly and most importantly, thanks go to Chic who had shared his extensive knowledge about the traverse with me,
Don who's thoughtful and positive attitude always produces constructive comments,
Conrad who's recent info on rappels and communication advice were greatly appreciated,
Claude and Bruce for understanding that these kind of trips can not happen on a corporate schedule.
Ken, Sean, and Ross all contributed pieces of gear to my last minute kit assembly.
Kirsten, Ken, Chic, Don, Barry, and Katherine were
thinking of me while I was on the icefields.
Special thanks also go to the Park's personnel Grant, Rupert, A.L., and Louisa, all from the Columbia Icefields, and Marc from Jasper.
James kindly picked me up at Lagans in Lake Louise and
drove me straight to my car 230km north at the Edith Cavel Trailhead.
We had a mutually satisfactory chat all the way and the drive passed by in no time while he was surveying his relay run change points.
to all who have helped me with the last minute preparation.
Firstly and most importantly, thanks go to Chic who had shared his extensive knowledge about the traverse with me,
Don who's thoughtful and positive attitude always produces constructive comments,
Conrad who's recent info on rappels and communication advice were greatly appreciated,
Claude and Bruce for understanding that these kind of trips can not happen on a corporate schedule.
Ken, Sean, and Ross all contributed pieces of gear to my last minute kit assembly.
Kirsten, Ken, Chic, Don, Barry, and Katherine were
thinking of me while I was on the icefields.
Special thanks also go to the Park's personnel Grant, Rupert, A.L., and Louisa, all from the Columbia Icefields, and Marc from Jasper.
James kindly picked me up at Lagans in Lake Louise and
drove me straight to my car 230km north at the Edith Cavel Trailhead.
We had a mutually satisfactory chat all the way and the drive passed by in no time while he was surveying his relay run change points.
PreTripMania
started in 1994 - the time I had first read Chic's guidebook. Ever since I would throw a thought towards the traverse at least once a year, but my active ski touring life had been interupted by rising desires for ice climbing. While I was doing 60 days of ski touring in the mid 90's I had done three days of ski touring this year before venturing to Castleguard on Saturday, May 5th. Conditions were excellent, with almost too much snow on top and melt-freeze snow on the glacier. The long term forecast looked good for two weeks with a smal disturbance in the middle. I felt that the time was right with the big snow year that we had.I spent Sunday rockclimbing at Grassi Lakes completely absent minded and mostly thinking about my gear kit. Met Sean who agreed to give me his light tent used only once in exchange for my not arrived yet new tent of the same model. I was working on Monday and was choosing gear during the breaks, Tuesday working in Calgary and running around for a communication device, and Wednesday packing. Thursday morning I placed a food cache at the toe of the Saskatchewan Glacier, registered at the Icefilds Parks Office, did some last minute shopping in Jasper, and started towards the Edith Cavel Hostel at 7:45 pm.
Route
Astoria Valley
Fraser Glacier
Simon Creek
Middle Whirlpool River
Whirlpool River
Whirlpool River
Scott Glacier
Hooker Icefield
South of Mt. Serenity
Serenity Glacier
Wood River
Clemenceau Creek
Clemenceau Glacier
Clemenceau Icefield
South of Apex Mt.
North of Edert Pk.
South of Chaba Pk.
Wales Glacier
South of Mt. King Edward
South of Mt. Columbia
High Level Traverse
Columbia Icefield
Saskatchewan Glacier
Castleguard Glacier
Castleguard River
Alexandria Glacier
Lyell Icefield
South of Division Mt.
Mons Glacier
West Glacier
Forbes Creek
Niverville Col
Freshfield Icefield
Mt.Lambe North Col
Lambe Glacier
Bleabery River
Wild Cat Creek
Trapper-Baker Col
Wapta Icefield
St. Nicholas-Olive Col
Vulture Glacier
Balfour Glacier
Balfour High Col
Mt. Niles South Col
Sherbrook Lake
Fraser Glacier
Simon Creek
Middle Whirlpool River
Whirlpool River
Whirlpool River
Scott Glacier
Hooker Icefield
South of Mt. Serenity
Serenity Glacier
Wood River
Clemenceau Creek
Clemenceau Glacier
Clemenceau Icefield
South of Apex Mt.
North of Edert Pk.
South of Chaba Pk.
Wales Glacier
South of Mt. King Edward
South of Mt. Columbia
High Level Traverse
Columbia Icefield
Saskatchewan Glacier
Castleguard Glacier
Castleguard River
Alexandria Glacier
Lyell Icefield
South of Division Mt.
Mons Glacier
West Glacier
Forbes Creek
Niverville Col
Freshfield Icefield
Mt.Lambe North Col
Lambe Glacier
Bleabery River
Wild Cat Creek
Trapper-Baker Col
Wapta Icefield
St. Nicholas-Olive Col
Vulture Glacier
Balfour Glacier
Balfour High Col
Mt. Niles South Col
Sherbrook Lake
GoogleMap
GoogleMap will also improve with time.
Photo Journal
Captions are still in the making.
The road to Edith Cavel - Astoria Valley trailhead


Day 1: The start of the traverse.



Day 2: Fraser Glacier, Simon Creek, and Middle Whirlpool River









Day 3: Up and down the passes into Whirlpool River Valley



Mt. Scott on the left and Mt. Evans on the right.










Day 4: Scott Glacier, Hooker Icefield
















(The sources for this one were low res files. A much better version was obtained using full resolution.)





This would be the next escape route (10km around the lake, then 40, I beleive to the highway)

































































































































































































Some numbers for those who would like to do the trip:

DAY/CAMP | GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURE | UTM GR | Elevation (m) | El. Gain (m) | Total El. G./Day (m) | Total El. Loss/Day (m) | Distance (km) | Total D./Day (km) | ||||||
Day 0 (10.05.2007;20:00) | Edith Cavel Trailhead (93A) | 1200 | 0.0 | 0.0 | ||||||||||
Camp 0 | Edith Cavel Hostel | 284399 | 1720 | 520 | 520 | 0 | 12.0 | 12.0 | 12 | |||||
Day 1 | Astoria Valley/Wates Gibson Hut | 151355 | 1920 | 200 | 15.0 | 27.0 | ||||||||
Camp 1 | Toe of Fraser Glacier | 147354 | 1960 | 40 | 240 | 0 | 1.0 | 28.0 | 16 | |||||
Day 2 | Fraser Glacier | 137336 | 2420 | 460 | 3.0 | 31.0 | ||||||||
Simon Creek | 173255 | 1520 | -900 | 10.0 | 41.0 | |||||||||
Pass | 188214 | 2340 | 820 | 4.0 | 45.0 | |||||||||
Middle Whirlpool River | 208190 | 1620 | -720 | 4.0 | 49.0 | |||||||||
Camp 2 | Treeline at a lake | 212176 | 2000 | 380 | 1,660 | -1,620 | 2.0 | 51.0 | 23 | |||||
Day 3 | Shoulder “500 m South of a pass” | 212155 | 2260 | 260 | 1.0 | 52.0 | ||||||||
Whirlpool River | 247158 | 1380 | -880 | 3.0 | 55.0 | |||||||||
Camp 3 | Lake at the toe of Scott Glacier | 256124 | 1460 | 80 | 340 | -880 | 3.0 | 58.0 | 7 | |||||
Day 4 | Hooker Icefield | 287056 | 2810 | 1,350 | 8.5 | 66.5 | ||||||||
Col WSW of Mt. Serenity | 288058 | 2740 | -70 | 0.5 | 67.0 | |||||||||
Col S of Mt. Serenity | 313051 | 2860 | 120 | 2.5 | 69.5 | |||||||||
Camp 4 | Lake at the toe of Serenity Glacier | 348037 | 1620 | -1,240 | 1,470 | -1,310 | 5.0 | 74.5 | 16.5 | |||||
Day 5 | Wood River | 364020 | 1320 | -300 | 2.5 | 77.0 | ||||||||
Clemenceau Creek | 340989 | 1080 | -240 | 5.0 | 82.0 | |||||||||
Camp 5 | Clemenceau Creek (burned forest) | 373393 | 1680 | 600 | 600 | -540 | 7.5 | 89.5 | 15 | |||||
Day 6 | Clemenceau Creek | 377918 | 1480 | -200 | 2.0 | 91.5 | ||||||||
Camp 6 | Toe of Clemenceau Glacier | 386899 | 1680 | 200 | 200 | -200 | 3.0 | 94.5 | 5 | |||||
Day 7 | Clemenceau Glacier Col S of Apex Mt. | 443844 | 2940 | 1,260 | 11.0 | 105.5 | ||||||||
Apex Glacier | 455848 | 2800 | -140 | 2.0 | 107.5 | |||||||||
Apex Glacier Day Camp | 469849 | 2880 | 80 | 2.0 | 109.5 | |||||||||
North of Edert Pk. | 488834 | 2940 | 60 | 3.5 | 113.0 | |||||||||
Chaba Icefield | 527830 | 2860 | -80 | 4.5 | 117.5 | |||||||||
Camp 7 | Col ESE of Chaba Pk. | 550828 | 2940 | 80 | 1,480 | -220 | 2.5 | 120.0 | 25.5 | |||||
Day 8 | Wales Glacier | 574798 | 2200 | -740 | 4.0 | 124.0 | ||||||||
Col N of Triad | 616780 | 2820 | 620 | 5.0 | 129.0 | |||||||||
Col Triad & K. Edward – Columbia Icefield | 630770 | 2620 | -200 | 2.0 | 131.0 | |||||||||
Camp 8 | Camp SE of Mt. King Edward | 667762 | 2760 | 140 | 760 | -940 | 4.5 | 135.5 | 15.5 | |||||
Day 9 | South of Mt. Columbia – Start of Bush River | 692728 | 1600 | -1,160 | 5.0 | 140.5 | ||||||||
Camp 9 | Camp MIKI :) | 694740 | 2000 | 400 | 400 | -1,160 | 1.5 | 142.0 | 6.5 | |||||
Day 10 | Start of High Level Traverse | 700730 | 1520 | -480 | 1.0 | 143.0 | ||||||||
Columbia Icefield | 727768 | 2860 | 1,340 | 6.0 | 149.0 | |||||||||
The Trench | 758762 | 2700 | -160 | 3.5 | 152.5 | |||||||||
Columbia Icefield-High point E of the Trench | 780760 | 2800 | 100 | 2.5 | 155.0 | |||||||||
Columbia Icefield-Col NW of Mt. Castleguard | 810750 | 2580 | -220 | 3.0 | 158.0 | |||||||||
Col W of Mt. Castleguard | 818725 | 2700 | 120 | 2.5 | 160.5 | |||||||||
Toe of Saskatchewan Glacier | 905790 | 1840 | -860 | 12.5 | 173.0 | |||||||||
Camp 10 | Col W of Mt. Castleguard | 818725 | 2700 | 860 | 2,420 | -1,720 | 12.5 | 185.5 | 43.5 | |||||
Day 11 | Castleguard River | 900637 | 1600 | -1,100 | 13.0 | 198.5 | ||||||||
Shoulder | 907630 | 1680 | 80 | 1.0 | 199.5 | |||||||||
Camp 11 | Lake at the Toe of Alexandria Glacier | 907617 | 1600 | -80 | 80 | -1,180 | 2.0 | 201.5 | 16 | |||||
Day 12 | E Alexandra Gl. - Col W of Errnest Pk | 918560 | 2990 | 1,390 | 8.0 | 209.5 | ||||||||
Lyell Icefield – Ernest/Edward Col | 932564 | 3400 | 410 | 2.0 | 211.5 | |||||||||
South of Division Mt. | 977500 | 2800 | -600 | 8.0 | 219.5 | |||||||||
Mons Glacier – Col Division/Mons | 983474 | 2480 | -320 | 3.0 | 222.5 | |||||||||
Camp 12 | West Gl – Mons Rapel | 017445 | 2700 | 220 | 2,020 | -920 | 6.0 | 228.5 | 27 | |||||
Day13 | Forbes Creek | 040415 | 1780 | -920 | 4.0 | 232.5 | ||||||||
Niverville Col | 034379 | 2740 | 960 | 4.0 | 236.5 | |||||||||
Camp 13 | Camp | 043357 | 2350 | -390 | 960 | -1,310 | 2.5 | 239.0 | ||||||
Day 14 | Toe of Freshfield Icefield | 055347 | 2100 | -250 | 2.0 | 241.0 | ||||||||
Camp 14 | Freshfield Icefield – NW of Mt. Lambe | 110310 | 2580 | 480 | 480 | -250 | 7.0 | 248.0 | 19.5 | |||||
Day 15 | Mt.Lambe North Col | 119320 | 2900 | 320 | 2.0 | 250.0 | ||||||||
Bowl N of Mt. Lambe | 124324 | 2760 | -140 | 1.0 | 251.0 | |||||||||
Mt. Lambe E Col | 130325 | 2860 | 100 | 1.0 | 252.0 | |||||||||
Bleabery River | 183352 | 1500 | -1,360 | 3.0 | 255.0 | |||||||||
Bleabery River @ Wild Cat Creek | 200295 | 1260 | -240 | 6.5 | 261.5 | |||||||||
Camp 15 | Wild Cat Creek – Mistaya Lake Sauna Room :) | 254274 | 2060 | 800 | 1,220 | -1,740 | 6.0 | 267.5 | 19.5 | |||||
Day 16 | Trapper-Baker Col | 284243 | 2880 | 820 | 5.0 | 272.5 | ||||||||
Wapta Icefield | 302232 | 2560 | -320 | 3.0 | 275.5 | |||||||||
St. Nicholas-Olive Col | 345190 | 2950 | 390 | 7.0 | 282.5 | |||||||||
Camp 16 | Vulture Glacier – Balfour Hut | 375157 | 2460 | -490 | 1,210 | -810 | 4.5 | 287.0 | 19.5 | |||||
Day 17 | Balfour High Col | 388120 | 2940 | 480 | 4.0 | 291.0 | ||||||||
Mt. Niles NE Col | 410069 | 2680 | -260 | 6.0 | 297.0 | |||||||||
(27.05.2007;~20:00) | Sherbrook Lake – West Louise Lodge | 452992 | 1620 | -1,060 | 480 | -1,320 | 11.0 | 308.0 | 21 | |||||
TOTAL GAIN | 420 | 308 | ||||||||||||
TOTAL VERTICAL GAIN | 16,540 | |||||||||||||
TOTAL VERTICAL LOSS | -16,120 | |||||||||||||
TOTAL DISTANCE | 308.0 | |||||||||||||